Structural Engineering: 2007-09-23

Friday, September 28, 2007

RE: metal stud building design guide

Thank you Mark, David, Bill, and Chris.

Gautam, SE

From: David Topete [mailto:dtopete@gfdseng.com]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 2:55 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: RE: metal stud building design guide

Aside from the SSMA, try some of the manufacturers, like CEMCO and Dietrich. www.cemcosteel.com and www.dietrichindustries.com/ Lots of information on each website.

David A. Topete, SE

From: Gautam Manandhar [mailto:Gautam_Manandhar@ci.richmond.ca.us]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 2:27 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: RE: metal stud building design guide

Listmembers:

I am looking for some guidance on metal stud design. I am also looking for some typical details – reference to manufacturer’s web site that contain some typical detail would be appreciated. Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Gautam

Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

In a message dated 9/28/2007 11:54:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time, packman90@qwest.net writes:

I just wanted to caution against the use of Polyurethane Glue, like
Gorilla Glue. There is an interesting article in Fine Woodworking
magazine, Aug 2007 No. 192, that has tested various glues in a
bridle joint, which is an open mortise and tenon joint. The tests
were done on three types of woods and the joints were milled to
three levels of joint tightness when dry-fit, tight, snug, and loose.

The best glue in the test was Type I PVA glue (waterproof), like
Titebond III. The worst in the test was polyurethane glue with
only 58% of the strength of the Type I PVA glue. Slow set epoxy
like System Three T-88 was the second best in the test.

Polyurethane glues swell and foam to fill joints but they don't have
strength through that glue matrix when cured, like the epoxies do.

To the OP: Are you going to be drawing the crack closed with the
bolts? Are there going to be stresses on the cracked joint after
the adhesive cures? If you are going to be drawing the crack
closed, I would use PVA glue and "clamp" the joint tight with
the bolts and allow it to cure.

Take Care,
Lloyd

Thanks for the info LLoyd

Tony

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RE: metal stud building design guide

Aside from the SSMA, try some of the manufacturers, like CEMCO and Dietrich. www.cemcosteel.com and www.dietrichindustries.com/ Lots of information on each website.

David A. Topete, SE

From: Gautam Manandhar [mailto:Gautam_Manandhar@ci.richmond.ca.us]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 2:27 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: RE: metal stud building design guide

Listmembers:

Gautam

RE: metal stud building design guide

Another link to try (Cold-Formed Steel Engineers Institute):

http://www.cfsei.org/

Bill Sherman

CH2M HILL / DEN

720-286-2792

From: Christopher Banbury [mailto:cbanbury@arkengineering.net]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 3:40 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: RE: metal stud building design guide

Try

www.ssma.com

Christopher Banbury, PE

President

Ark Engineering, Inc.

PO Box 10129, Brooksville, FL 34603

22 North Broad ST, Brooksville, FL 34601

Phone: (352) 754-2424

Fax: (352) 754-2412

www.arkengineering.net

From: Gautam Manandhar [mailto:Gautam_Manandhar@ci.richmond.ca.us]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 5:31 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: RE: metal stud building design guide

Listmembers:

Gautam

RE: metal stud building design guide

Check out, :"Cold Formed Steel Design" by Wei-Wen Yu. It is the third edition published in 2000. I don't think there is a newer edition yet. It will answer most of your questions. For details go to http://www.ssma.com/SSMA_Details.pdf. They also have DXF files for download.

Mark E. Deardorff, SE
R & S Tavares Associates, Inc
9815 Carroll Canyon Road
Suite 206
San Diego, CA 92131
Phone: 858-444-3344
Phone: 209-863-8928
mark@rstavares.com
www.rstavares.com

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From: Gautam Manandhar [mailto:Gautam_Manandhar@ci.richmond.ca.us]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 2:27 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: RE: metal stud building design guide

Listmembers:

I am looking for some guidance on metal stud design. I am also looking for some typical details – reference to manufacturer’s web site that contain some typical detail would be appreciated. Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Gautam

RE: metal stud building design guide

Try

www.ssma.com

Christopher Banbury, PE

President

Ark Engineering, Inc.

PO Box 10129, Brooksville, FL 34603

22 North Broad ST, Brooksville, FL 34601

Phone: (352) 754-2424

Fax: (352) 754-2412

www.arkengineering.net

From: Gautam Manandhar [mailto:Gautam_Manandhar@ci.richmond.ca.us]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 5:31 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: RE: metal stud building design guide

Listmembers:

Gautam

RE: metal stud building design guide

Listmembers:

Gautam

Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

On 27 Sep 2007 at 11:00, Tom.Hunt@fluor.com wrote:

>
>
> Antonio,
>
> I have never used it but I hear carpenters swear by Gorilla Glue.
>
> Thomas Hunt, S.E.
> Fluor
>
>
>
>
> ASLCSE@aol.com
> 09/27/2007 10:42 AM
> Please respond to seaint
> To
> seaint@seaint.org
> cc
>
>
> Subject
> Epoxy for Wood Repair
>
>
> Hello again, engineering friends.
>
> What is the best suited EPOXY to use in Wood Repair (cracked DFL beam)
> in "combination" with bolts holding it together.
>
> Thanks
>
> Antonio S. "Tony" Luisoni
> Consulting S.E.
> Granada Hills, CA
>

I just wanted to caution against the use of Polyurethane Glue, like
Gorilla Glue. There is an interesting article in Fine Woodworking
magazine, Aug 2007 No. 192, that has tested various glues in a
bridle joint, which is an open mortise and tenon joint. The tests
were done on three types of woods and the joints were milled to
three levels of joint tightness when dry-fit, tight, snug, and loose.

The best glue in the test was Type I PVA glue (waterproof), like
Titebond III. The worst in the test was polyurethane glue with
only 58% of the strength of the Type I PVA glue. Slow set epoxy
like System Three T-88 was the second best in the test.

Polyurethane glues swell and foam to fill joints but they don't have
strength through that glue matrix when cured, like the epoxies do.

To the OP: Are you going to be drawing the crack closed with the
bolts? Are there going to be stresses on the cracked joint after
the adhesive cures? If you are going to be drawing the crack
closed, I would use PVA glue and "clamp" the joint tight with
the bolts and allow it to cure.

Take Care,
Lloyd

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Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

Thanks Jordan

Tony

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Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

I have been unable to find an adhesive product which provides any sort of quantitative value for shear or bond strength with wood products. I have used urethane glue for assemblies, but have nothing other than anecdotes on its performance. My experience, although good, is only with thin films of the adhesive, clamped during curing. It's bond strength appears to be higher than nearly every hardwood I've seen it used on, up to and including white oak, santos mahogony and brazilian walnut (aka Ipe or Ironwood, G>1.0, E probably over 2.0E6, again anecdotal). I would not trust urethane in anything other than thin film applications.

Someone else mentioned WoodEpox. I have seen it used for rotted/damaged wood repair in non-loadbearing and compression-only repairs. I received some correspondance fromt he manufacturers, who would not give any shear or bond capacities, stating that it is only to be used in compression. Most commercial high-strength epoxies will require a specific film thickness, surface preparation and curing requirement, none of which could be easily controlled in your in-service condition.

In your case, check to see that you get some kind of data on the cured epoxy (compressive and shear moduli for bulk epoxy) to ensure some modicum of compatibility with the anticipated future deflections. Then make sure the bolts hold everything together structurally.

Jordan

ASLCSE@aol.com wrote:

Hello again, engineering friends.

What is the best suited EPOXY to use in Wood Repair (cracked DFL beam) in "combination" with bolts holding it together.

Thanks

Antonio S. "Tony" Luisoni

Consulting S.E.

Granada Hills, CA

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Thursday, September 27, 2007

Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

Thanks Dennis

Tony

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RE: Epoxy for Wood Repair

Go to http://www.abatron.com/ . I’ve specified their products for the repair to the base of wood columns in a Post and Beam building. The base of the columns were severely damaged with dry rot and the columns would have had to be replaced. Abatron was in the Kenosha Wisconsin area and I specified their product about ten years ago. The repair work was done to the columns – removing the lose material and then building out on the columns. The Epoxy materials bonded well with the wood and after being sanded, primed and painted it was virtually impossible to identify the original damaged columns.

I have a need for it on my own home where I have some dry rot on wood casement windows that has rotted through the window sill on the outside probably due to the sprinkler system under the tree adjacent to the window.

Check out the site. They have examples of how to use the products from column repairs to creating molds for new wall mounted plaster casts that were created using the Abatron products to create a form.

Dennis

From: Tom.Hunt@fluor.com [mailto:Tom.Hunt@fluor.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 11:00 AM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

Antonio,

I have never used it but I hear carpenters swear by Gorilla Glue.

Thomas Hunt, S.E.
Fluor

ASLCSE@aol.com
09/27/2007 10:42 AM
Please respond to seaint

To	seaint@seaint.org
cc
Subject	Epoxy for Wood Repair

Hello again, engineering friends.

What is the best suited EPOXY to use in Wood Repair (cracked DFL beam) in "combination" with bolts holding it together.

Thanks

Antonio S. "Tony" Luisoni
Consulting S.E.
Granada Hills, CA

See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage.

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RE: Core Hole Through PT Slab

Farzin,

We typically will let them get within an inch on the regular reinforcing, but hold 3 inches clear of the PT just for safety. If you have to relax the three inch you can, but that’s the rule we use. Even with x-ray and GPR there is room for error.

Paul Feather PE, SE

pfeather@SE-Solutions.net

www.SE-Solutions.net

From: FSRahbar@aol.com [mailto:FSRahbar@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 2:57 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: Core Hole Through PT Slab

List:

At one of our projects, the contractor needs to core some holes through the structural slab. The slab has both PT cables and regular reinforcing. Cores are from 2" to 4" in diameter and are 16" to 20" apart in both directions. We are not allowing them to cut any of the reinforcing. However, I am trying to give them a guideline as to the distance from the edge of the cores to the edge of the reinforcing. I remember a 1" dimension had been discusses in the past. Is that sufficient? Any thoughts?

Thank you,

Farzin S. Rahbar, SE
David C. Weiss Structural Engineer & Associates, Inc.
(818) 227-8040 Ex. 13 Fax: (818) 227-8041

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RE: Composite Steel Beam

Done it many times.

Matthew Stuart

....would it be possible to core out say a 6" hole in the concrete install the missing studs and then fill the hole with high strength grout?

Jason

Re: Core Hole Through PT Slab

In a message dated 9/27/2007 3:53:32 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ASLCSE@aol.com writes:

Your biggest worry should be the P.T. strands (besides the rebar). I presume you requested Pacometer readings to establish the location of the strands and rebar. For safety reasons I suggest to use 2" clear between the edge of the cores and and the strands. I am talking about an elevated strcutural slab, but I would use the same precaution for a post tensioned slab on grade.

Thank you. Yes, the entire area has been x-Rayed. We know exactly where every piece of reinforcing is.

Farzin S. Rahbar, SE
David C. Weiss Structural Engineer & Associates, Inc.
(818) 227-8040 Ex. 13 Fax: (818) 227-8041

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Composite Steel Beam

I have a shored, composite steel beam, 6” slab on W3 deck that req’d (27) shear studs, the steel erector installed (12). For some odd reason the special inspector, job forman and everyone else missed the error. When the shoring was removed they found the error, major deflection and vibration issues!

Does anyone have experience with fixing this? I was planning to ignore the (12) studs and shore up the beam and weld some misc steel shape to the bottom flange (both flanges if req’d), would it be possible to core out say a 6” hole in the concrete install the missing studs and then fill the hole with high strength grout? Any suggestions would be greatly welcome.

Jason

Re: Core Hole Through PT Slab

In a message dated 9/27/2007 2:57:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, FSRahbar@aol.com writes:

At one of our projects, the contractor needs to core some holes through the structural slab. The slab has both PT cables and regular reinforcing. Cores are from 2" to 4" in diameter and are 16" to 20" apart in both directions. We are not allowing them to cut any of the reinforcing. However, I am trying to give them a guideline as to the distance from the edge of the cores to the edge of the reinforcing. I remember a 1" dimension had been discusses in the past. Is that sufficient? Any thoughts?

Thank you,

Farzin S. Rahbar, SE
David C. Weiss Structural Engineer & Associates, Inc.
(818) 227-8040 Ex. 13 Fax: (818) 227-8041

Your biggest worry should be the P.T. strands (besides the rebar). I presume you requested Pacometer readings to establish the location of the strands and rebar. For safety reasons I suggest to use 2" clear between the edge of the cores and and the strands. I am talking about an elevated strcutural slab, but I would use the same precaution for a post tensioned slab on grade.

Antonio S. "Tony" Luisoni

Consulting S.E.

Granada Hills

P.S. Give my regards to Dave

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Core Hole Through PT Slab

List:

Thank you,

Farzin S. Rahbar, SE
David C. Weiss Structural Engineer & Associates, Inc.
(818) 227-8040 Ex. 13 Fax: (818) 227-8041

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RE: PCACOL in 2006 SEAOC Sesimic Design manual Vol 3 “Unified Design Procedure”

Szuchuan:

One of the significant changes in ACI318-05 is the replacement of old "Strength Design" with the new "Unified Design".

"Unified Design Procedure" used to be in Former App. B of ACI 318-99, but in ACI 318-02 moved to chapters 8, 9, 10 and 18.

One of the highlights of the "Unified Design" is that the Strength Reduction Factor "Phi" has to be computed and does not have a predetermined value.

I've read some of the concrete examples in "IBC 2006 Seismic Manual" and have not seen the update & transition form "Strength design" to "Unified design."

In fact I was at a SEOASC seminar based on "IBC 2006 Seismic Manual", last Saturday in Long Beach, and I pointed out this issue to the speaker covering concrete SMRF.

A warning that the "Column Interaction Diagrams" based on old "Strength Design" are no longer valid and correct for the ACI 318-05 "Unified Design."

You'd need to used the update Diagram only found in new publications/software.

If you need reference for clear description on this subject let me know.

Dr. S.K. Ghosh & Ben Yousefi have had some presentations on ACI 318-02/05, which I found to be the best.

Regards
Casey (Khashayar) Hemmatyar, SE
Private e <khemmatyar@hotmail.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Szuchuan Chang [mailto:szuchuan@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 12:59 PM
To: SEAOC
Subject: PCACOL used in 2006 SEAOC Sesimic Design manual Vol 3

I am looking at the interaction diagram of page 252 of the 2006 IBC

Structural Seismic Design Manual, Vol 3.

These are the charts for ACI 318-95. Over ten years old stuff.

PCACOL 3.6x (per ACI 318-02) would produces very much different kind

of charts.

If 2006 IBC is based on ACI 318-05, shouldn't the charts be changed?

Thanks

Szuchuan

Re: Blast Resistance of Bridges-Popular Mechanics Article

Picky, picky. :)

In a message dated 9/27/07 1:24:50 PM, lbryant@ara.com writes:

Do you have your study published in a peer-reviewed or refereed publication?
Sorry, but I don't get my information regarding blast from Popular
Mechanics, nor from anything that uses the word "bombproof".
I would appreciate a reference as above.

Regards,
Larry
*****************************************************************
Larry M. Bryant, PhD
Principal Engineer
Applied Research Associates, Inc.
*****************************************************************
NOTICE - This message may contain confidential and privileged information
that is for the sole use of the intended recipient. Any viewing, copying or
distribution of, or reliance on this message is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this message in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer.

-----Original Message-----
From: Abolhassan Astaneh-Asl [mailto:astaneh@ce.berkeley.edu]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 12:47 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: Blast Resistance of Bridges-Popular Mechanics Article

Dear SEAINT Friends: If you have interest in blast resistance of
bridges, there is an article posted this week on the Popular Mechanics
web site:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/transportation/4224710.html

It refers to some of our research work on this subject. More
information on our project is posted on my web site at:
www.ce.berkeley.edu/~astaneh   then click on "Steel Bridges,
Blast-Resistance" almost at the center of my homepage above "World
Trade Center".

Best wishes as always.
Abolhassan Astaneh-Asl, Ph.D., P.E.,
Professor and Principal Investigator,
Blast Protection of Steel and Composite Bridges, Funded in part by the
National Science Foundation at the
Center for Catastrophic Risk Management (CCRM,
http://iber.berkeley.edu/ccrm/   ) and the
Center for Information Technology Research in the Interest of Society
(CITRIS, http://www.citris-uc.org/)
University of California, Berkeley.

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RE: Blast Resistance of Bridges-Popular Mechanics Article

Do you have your study published in a peer-reviewed or refereed publication?
Sorry, but I don't get my information regarding blast from Popular
Mechanics, nor from anything that uses the word "bombproof".
I would appreciate a reference as above.

Regards,
Larry
*****************************************************************
Larry M. Bryant, PhD
Principal Engineer
Applied Research Associates, Inc.
*****************************************************************
NOTICE - This message may contain confidential and privileged information
that is for the sole use of the intended recipient. Any viewing, copying or
distribution of, or reliance on this message is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this message in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer.

-----Original Message-----
From: Abolhassan Astaneh-Asl [mailto:astaneh@ce.berkeley.edu]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 12:47 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: Blast Resistance of Bridges-Popular Mechanics Article

Dear SEAINT Friends: If you have interest in blast resistance of
bridges, there is an article posted this week on the Popular Mechanics
web site:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/transportation/4224710.html

It refers to some of our research work on this subject. More
information on our project is posted on my web site at:
www.ce.berkeley.edu/~astaneh

then click on "Steel Bridges,
Blast-Resistance" almost at the center of my homepage above "World
Trade Center".

Best wishes as always.
Abolhassan Astaneh-Asl, Ph.D., P.E.,
Professor and Principal Investigator,
Blast Protection of Steel and Composite Bridges, Funded in part by the
National Science Foundation at the
Center for Catastrophic Risk Management (CCRM,

http://iber.berkeley.edu/ccrm/

) and the
Center for Information Technology Research in the Interest of Society
(CITRIS, http://www.citris-uc.org/)
University of California, Berkeley.

******* ****** ****** ****** ******* ****** ****** ********

Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

In a message dated 9/27/2007 12:38:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rkazanjy@gmail.com writes:

Tony-

I have used all sorts of epoxies for all sorts of wood strengthening, repair & retrofit.

Most has been non-structural but I've messed around with some structural stuff as well.

I have used Wood Epox & Liquid Wood from www.abatron.com. I started using their products 20+ years ago.

In addition to the Abatron products recently (in the last 5 years) I have started using SIKA products.
SIKA is easier to get since Whitecap (in SoCal) stocks it & can special order stuff they don't stock.

Sikadur 31 & 35 as well as their epxoy injection gel which I believe lists truss repair as an application. My use may have been "off label" but I had the luxury of building prototypes & testing them.

SIKA has a lot of products so I would suggest you contact your local SIKA rep, the SoCal rep that I have had contact with is very helpful & knows their product line well.

You could give their tech people a call as well.

cheers
Bob

On 9/27/07, ASLCSE@aol.com < ASLCSE@aol.com> wrote:

Hello again, engineering friends.

What is the best suited EPOXY to use in Wood Repair (cracked DFL beam) in "combination" with bolts holding it together.

Thanks

Antonio S. "Tony" Luisoni

Consulting S.E.

Granada Hills, CA

Thanks Bob

Tony

See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage.

PCACOL used in 2006 SEAOC Sesimic Design manual Vol 3

I am looking at the interaction diagram of page 252 of the 2006 IBC
Structural Seismic Design Manual, Vol 3.

These are the charts for ACI 318-95. Over ten years old stuff.
PCACOL 3.6x (per ACI 318-02) would produces very much different kind
of charts.

If 2006 IBC is based on ACI 318-05, shouldn't the charts be changed?

Thanks

Szuchuan

******* ****** ****** ****** ******* ****** ****** ********

RE: Lifting Lugs

I would consider them as lifting lugs and design in accordance with ANSI B30.30, Below the Hook Lifting Devices and Design and Construction of Lifting Beams by David T. Ricker, AISC 4^th Quarter, 1991.

Gary W. Loomis, P.E., Senior Structural Engineering

Master Engineers and Designers, Inc.

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott, William N [mailto:William.N.Scott@conocophillips.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 2:46 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: RE: Lifting Lugs

ASME BTH-1, asme.org

From: Lakshmana Nukala [mailto:lakshmana.nukala@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 10:41 AM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: Lifting Lugs

Hi,

Can any one suggest, whether lifting lug are to classified as structural elements or mechanical / equipment elements? Is there any code to specifying are requirements of the lufting lugs on equipments, flanges, etc.

Regards

Lakshmana RK Nukala

Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

Tony-

I have used all sorts of epoxies for all sorts of wood strengthening, repair & retrofit.

Most has been non-structural but I've messed around with some structural stuff as well.

I have used Wood Epox & Liquid Wood from www.abatron.com. I started using their products 20+ years ago.

In addition to the Abatron products recently (in the last 5 years) I have started using SIKA products.
SIKA is easier to get since Whitecap (in SoCal) stocks it & can special order stuff they don't stock.

Sikadur 31 & 35 as well as their epxoy injection gel which I believe lists truss repair as an application. My use may have been "off label" but I had the luxury of building prototypes & testing them.

SIKA has a lot of products so I would suggest you contact your local SIKA rep, the SoCal rep that I have had contact with is very helpful & knows their product line well.

You could give their tech people a call as well.

cheers
Bob

On 9/27/07, ASLCSE@aol.com < ASLCSE@aol.com> wrote:

Hello again, engineering friends.

What is the best suited EPOXY to use in Wood Repair (cracked DFL beam) in "combination" with bolts holding it together.

Thanks

Antonio S. "Tony" Luisoni

Consulting S.E.

Granada Hills, CA

See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage.

RE: Epoxy for Wood Repair

I have had poor experience with Gorilla glue. I would look into West System Epoxy, a marine two part epoxy which is stronger than the wood you will repair.

Douglas

From: ASLCSE@aol.com [mailto:ASLCSE@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 1:42 PM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: Epoxy for Wood Repair

Hello again, engineering friends.

What is the best suited EPOXY to use in Wood Repair (cracked DFL beam) in "combination" with bolts holding it together.

Thanks

Antonio S. "Tony" Luisoni

Consulting S.E.

Granada Hills, CA

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Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

In a message dated 9/27/2007 11:34:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time, JCoombs@carollo.com writes:

How big is big? If you can seal it up and inject it or squirt it in somehow, it will expand to fill the gap. I'd use it up to about 1/2", and maybe a little larger if the space is on the interior.

Gorilla Glue (generic "Urethane glue") expands as it reacts with water, or the water in it evaporates. As it does so, it expands quite a bit, and is forced deep into the wood. a great adhesive to hold it together as it is completely water resistant. It can cure in wet conitions. It is NOT good in compression.

It is identical to "Great Foam" if you're familiar with that, but doesn't expand a fraction of that amount.

JDCoombs

At the bottom about 1/2" to about nothing at midheight (depth). It is an interior beam. Maybe on can (should) seal it at the bottom and inject (squirt) it in at the horizontal bolt holes?

Tony

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RE: Lifting Lugs

ASME BTH-1, asme.org

From: Lakshmana Nukala [mailto:lakshmana.nukala@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 10:41 AM
To: seaint@seaint.org
Subject: Lifting Lugs

Hi,

Regards

Lakshmana RK Nukala

Lifting Lugs

Hi,

Regards

Lakshmana RK Nukala

Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

How big is big? If you can seal it up and inject it or squirt it in somehow, it will expand to fill the gap. I'd use it up to about 1/2", and maybe a little larger if the space is on the interior.

Gorilla Glue (generic "Urethane glue") expands as it reacts with water, or the water in it evaporates. As it does so, it expands quite a bit, and is forced deep into the wood. a great adhesive to hold it together as it is completely water resistant. It can cure in wet conitions. It is NOT good in compression.

It is identical to "Great Foam" if you're familiar with that, but doesn't expand a fraction of that amount.

JDCoombs

>>> <ASLCSE@aol.com> 9/27/2007 1:16 PM >>>

Thanks Tom, but the crack is pretty big and just glue will not fill it.

Tony

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Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

Thanks Tom, but the crack is pretty big and just glue will not fill it.

Tony

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Re: Epoxy for Wood Repair

Antonio,

I have never used it but I hear carpenters swear by Gorilla Glue.

Thomas Hunt, S.E.
Fluor

ASLCSE@aol.com
09/27/2007 10:42 AM
Please respond to seaint

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cc
Subject	Epoxy for Wood Repair

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then click on "Steel Bridges,
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Epoxy for Wood Repair

Hello again, engineering friends.

What is the best suited EPOXY to use in Wood Repair (cracked DFL beam) in "combination" with bolts holding it together.

Thanks

Antonio S. "Tony" Luisoni

Consulting S.E.

Granada Hills, CA

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Re: T1-11 Shear Values

In a message dated 9/27/2007 10:10:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, dmorris@bbfm.com writes:

> Thanks
>
If nailed through the shiplap joint, then use the values for 3/8"
sheathing. If you use 3x or double studs, then you can use the full
panel thickness of 5/8". I don't think you can use a single 2x and get
two rows of nails into it from both panels and still maintain the proper
edge distance. I worked at one place where we called out double studs
when using T1-11, but after a few site visits discovered that few of the
contractors were doing this and the city inspectors hadn't caught this.
I then changed jobs and got out of residential work.

Thanks for you info

Tony

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Re: T1-11 Shear Values

Thank you so very much Thomas!

Would you do me a favor and fax the approvals to me. (818-363-6531)

Tony

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Re: T1-11 Shear Values

Thanks Bob

Tony

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Re: T1-11 Shear Values

Thanks David

Tony

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Re: T1-11 Shear Values

> *From:* ASLCSE@aol.com <mailto:ASLCSE@aol.com>
> [mailto:ASLCSE@aol.com <mailto:ASLCSE@aol.com>]
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 27, 2007 7:23 AM
> *To:* seaint@seaint.org <mailto:seaint@seaint.org>
> *Subject:* T1-11 Shear Values
>
>
> Hello friends:
>
>
>
> I am looking for (ICBO and/or L.A. City approved) allowable shear
> values for walls sheathed with T1-11
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
If nailed through the shiplap joint, then use the values for 3/8"
sheathing. If you use 3x or double studs, then you can use the full
panel thickness of 5/8". I don't think you can use a single 2x and get
two rows of nails into it from both panels and still maintain the proper
edge distance. I worked at one place where we called out double studs
when using T1-11, but after a few site visits discovered that few of the
contractors were doing this and the city inspectors hadn't caught this.
I then changed jobs and got out of residential work.

******* ****** ****** ****** ******* ****** ****** ********