---- Robert Kazanjy <rkazanjy@gmail.com> wrote:
> Jim-
>
> Take a look at my latest reply to Tom..........
>
> I was thinking about the washer heads used for frame assembly.
>
>
> Tom's scaling of the photos is probably pretty close. I think there might
> be a mistake in tour info in that report footnote that I talked about. :(
>
> I had heard the same thing about the pneumatic pins.....we even experienced
> flange bending with screws but when the screws finally "bite" they draw the
> flange back to the sheathing.
>
> Our studs were 20 gage which I think is on the light side....there would be
> less of a problem with thicker studs
>
> cheers
> Bob
>
> On 5/23/07, Jim Bessley <jbessley@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Bob,
> > Yes, I understand and I do appreciate your input. On another note, some
> > time back I read about pneumatic pins for shear walls and I heard from
> > someone on this list that they had a problem with the pins bending the
> > flanges of the metal studs without getting good penetration.
> > thanks again,
> > Jim
> >
> > On 5/23/07, Robert Kazanjy <rkazanjy@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > Jim-
> > >
> > > I realized you were quoting the code requirement but just wanted to give
> > > you my limited experience with plywood over steel studs.
> > >
> > > One problem we had when sheathing the walls..... was that the threads
> > > would grab in the plywood (or OSB) & then the plywood would lift off the
> > > studs. It was a real pain.....looks like Tek now makes a screw for wood to
> > > steel studs that has a reaming wings that avoid the problem.
> > >
> > > I think its call Ply-Tek or something like that
> > >
> > > I would suggest using as large a head as readily available (esp for OSB
> > > which is not very strong at the screw hole level) plus the construction
> > > crew will like a screw that doesn't lift off.........you'll get better
> > > workmanship as well.
> > >
> > > cheers
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > On 5/23/07, Jim Bessley < jbessley@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Bob,
> > > > Thanks. I was just reiterating the requirements from the code. Last
> > > > night I was able to locate some dimensions on the internet. It appears that
> > > > it is a #8 flat head screw. that is the minimum head diameter allowed. it
> > > > appears that a #8 flat head can have up to a .332" diameter. close to the
> > > > 3/8" you are talking about.
> > > > Jim
> > > >
> > > > On 5/23/07, Robert Kazanjy < rkazanjy@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Jim-
> > > > >
> > > > > That's a pretty small head diameter for a self driller / tapper for
> > > > > use in plywood
> > > > >
> > > > > A number of years ago we did plywood shear wall (CoLA Shear Test
> > > > > Program) over steel studs & I recall that the screw heads were more like
> > > > > 3/8" or even larger.
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have the data readily available due to a crash .........
> > > > > archived somewhere
> > > > >
> > > > > Maybe the specs have been changed but it seems to me that a bigger
> > > > > head (3/8 or 7/16) would be better than .292" . A head dia of .292 seems
> > > > > pretty skimpy.
> > > > >
> > > > > The screws were #8's or 10's
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > cheers
> > > > > Bob
> > > > >
> > > > > On 5/22/07, Jim Bessley < jbessley@gmail.com > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I am trying to design a shearwall using the 2003 IBC for plywood
> > > > > > sheathing over light gage metal studs. the code says that the screws should
> > > > > > be self drilling and tapping screws with a .292" head diameter. I can't
> > > > > > find the screw size that correlates to this head diameter. Can anybody out
> > > > > > there help me.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > thanks,
> > > > > > Jim Bessley
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
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