bolts and avoid the 3x sill? Seems like that might tear up that old
plate less...
Chris
On Mon, Jul 14, 2008 at 11:34 AM, Gaines, David <David.Gaines@hdrinc.com> wrote:
> Tim,
>
> For a sill plate in the desert I wouldn't worry too much about dry rot. You
> can ask Joe Venuti in Palm Springs, CA for confirmation of that idea. If the
> building is 20+ years old I would look for signs of moisture intrusion. Also
> check the height of the sill above exterior grade and drainage away from the
> building. If there is landscaping or sprinklers look for signs that water is
> hitting the building. The wood siding will not weather well either if it's
> getting wet. Look for any indications that water might be a problem around
> the base of the walls and correct it.
>
> For the metal flashing between the T1-11 siding and the sill plate, it
> sounds like the flashing sits flat. That should not inhibit the nail
> embedment or the nail slip in sill or plywood. Maybe others here have test
> data or experience with this. I've not heard of any shear wall tests
> regarding the flashing.
>
> Are you adding nails for the shear wall loads? Are the sills split at this
> time? If not, I would leave well enough alone. If you're adding nails then
> the added blocking is a good idea. But that will require nailing the
> blocking down to the existing sill plate. Predrill the holes to avoid
> splitting, or predrill and use screws.
>
> Dave Gaines
> gainesengr@earthlink.net
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: Pinyon Engineering [mailto:Pinyonengineering@hughes.net]
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 10:41 AM
> To: seaint@seaint.org
> Subject: sill plate
>
> Hi,
> I am working on a wood framed fire station built in the mid 1980's in a dry
> desert climate in California (used to be seismic zone 4)- they poured a 1.5"
> curb for the walls to get them above the concrete floor. they have a z type
> sheet metal flashing that covers the exterior slab insulation and is flush
> to the sill plate with the T1-11 plywood siding nailed thru the flashing to
> the sill plate.
>
> Problem # 1 - the sill plate is not redwood or pressure treated - should we
> replace it or can I have them inject asphalt under the plate to limit
> moisture from the concrete. or apply some other wonder chemical to prevent
> rot. the concern here would be dry rotting of the sill (the typical failure
> mode here)
>
> Problem # 2 - is the sheet metal ok between the sill plate and the plywood
> T1-11 shear panel. the shear to the wall in the addition is 493 plf - I
> prefer 3x6 sill plate for the 10d nailing I could add blocking on top of
> the sill for the nailing
>
> I will be adding holddowns and all new epoxy sill plate anchor bolts as part
> of the project
>
> any ideas are welcomed
>
> Tim Rudolph
> Pinyon Engineering
> Bishop CA
>
>
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